Sighișoara’s citadel is a fortified guild town, nine of its towers still standing, each once defended by the trade that built it, and on the last weekend of July the Sighișoara Medieval Festival takes the whole thing over. It is free, and Romania’s oldest festival medieval, with squares renamed for the weekend as Knights’ Market or Mercenaries’ Square, parades of drummers and flag-throwers up the lanes, video-mapping on the walls after dark and concerts on Citadel Square ending in Sunday fireworks. Beds are the problem: the few guesthouses inside the walls go months ahead, so stay in the lower town and climb. The programme appears on the town hall’s site and Facebook page shortly before, and nowhere else.