Provins was one of the four towns of the Champagne fairs, the 12th–13th-century trading cycle where Flemish cloth met Italian money and where the counts of Champagne collected the tolls that made them rich. At its peak the town had a wall circuit of about 5 km and a reputation strong enough that its ‘provinois’ coins circulated across Europe.
The upper town (Ville Haute) keeps the 12th-century Tour César keep, ramparts with the Porte Saint-Jean and Porte de Jouy, the Grange aux Dîmes (a 13th-century merchants’ hall), the collegiate church of Saint-Quiriace and a network of vaulted cellars under the merchants’ houses. The lower town grew around the Saint-Ayoul priory and the Durteint river, where tanners and dyers worked.
The fairs declined after about 1300 as trade routes shifted; Provins stayed small, which preserved it. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001 as ‘Provins, Town of Medieval Fairs’. Today it is about 80 minutes by train from Paris Gare de l’Est and stages birds-of-prey and jousting shows through the season.