The brewhouse on Křemencova is documented from 1499, which makes it, by its own account and by Prague City Tourism’s, the oldest brewpub in Central Europe still working. It took the name U Fleků from the Flekovský family who bought it in 1762. Since 1843 the house has brewed a single beer: Flekovský ležák 13°, a dark, unfiltered Bavarian-style lager, still made on site.
The building is a warren of nine rooms accumulated over four centuries, and which one you are put in decides your evening. The Knights’ Hall and the vaulted back rooms are low, dark and timbered; the Academy Hall, where the Czech national revivalists drank in the 19th century, has the long benches; the large garden holds several hundred at trestle tables under chestnuts. If you are shown into the big modern hall used for coach parties, ask to move.
There is a brewery museum on the site with the old malt house and coppers, and brewery tours can be arranged. There is also a nightly cabaret with an accordion — an old-Prague folklore show, bookable in advance — which is exactly as advertised and not why you would come.
The practical warning matters more here than anywhere else on this list. Waiters circulate constantly with trays of shot glasses of herbal liqueur and offer them to every table; anything you accept goes on the bill, and the bill is written on a beer mat as things arrive. Read the mat before you pay and cross off what you did not order. The beer itself is served without being asked for, and will keep arriving until you put a coaster on top of your glass — the standard Czech signal for stop.
Open daily 10:00 to 23:00. Reservations are taken through the restaurant’s website and are worth making in the evening.
